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Cultivars: Why You Should Think Twice About Them

When we think of tea, there’s much to love. I know many who appreciate the quality and freshness of selected teas. I know others who are staunch fans of Genmaicha’s flavors, and that is their proverbial calling. Growers of tea and admirers of landscapes often talk about the beauty of tea plants, their leaves, and the arrangements found across parts of Japan, for example. In some respects, there is a uniqueness to the culture of tea, and as it continues to unfold, I suspect we will appreciate tea just that much more. It’s in this context that tea cultivars enter our vocabulary. I want to spend some time discussing why you should look out for this variable moving forward.

We’ve had the opportunity to discuss cultivars in a previous post. Cultivars, in short, are the desired attributes that a grower is attempting to replicate on a larger scale. In recent decades, cultivars have blossomed, so to speak, to add a certain depth for tea drinkers. But why should any tea drinker take a serious look at cultivars?

Japanese Green Tea Co

Many have suggested that our age is blessed in a sense. This blessing takes the form of globalization, established in the 1970s and continuing to the present day. While not a unique age from a historical perspective, it helps shape our exposure to cultivars and the opportunity to continue exploring this side of tea. A short history of cultivars will help illustrate this point and the relationship between tea lovers and tea growers.

The "first" large-scale Japanese cultivar that much of the world is familiar with is, perhaps unsurprisingly, the Yabukita cultivar. This cultivar makes up the vast majority of tea plants across Japan. In fact, on this point alone, it's hard to believe that Japan has produced so many other cultivars. Japan’s transition to modernity continued in the early 20th century, and innovation eventually reached tea farms. Japan’s continued tea endeavors received governmental support after World War II in the form of tea research projects and the further development of cultivars. Very few cultivars changed the dominance of Yabukita, but globalization eventually opened the doors to new markets and increased demands.

Too many options, too much fun!

Japan has a continued interest in developing new cultivars. In fact, it is as much a regional and national sense of pride as it is a key element of Japan’s soft power. But much of this could not be accomplished without tea being consumed in our homes. Farmers and researchers are going to continue planting and growing new cultivars. In combination with globalization, the latest era of technology and information has helped "spread the word". Online tea reviews or blog posts such as this help define this new push for more tea. In effect, as tea drinkers continue to consume, there will likely be a clear positive correlation with an increase in knowledge and products available. Yes, what came first, the chicken or the egg? In some respects, this doesn’t matter, but it helps us dig a bit deeper into why cultivars will likely be a larger part of how we look at tea. At this point, the question may be, "Which cultivars have you tried? Are you keeping track? Are you looking for certain attributes?

The connection between our age and cultivars is more complicated than it appears. There is a strong tendency towards personalization and individualism in our contemporary economy. We can, for example, shape and filter enormous amounts of information. We can customize more types of products. We have more at our disposal to shape more areas of our lives. Given this, it's hardly a stretch to see the growing importance of cultivars. There are mornings when the smell of cherry blossoms sits perfectly on my table. On other days, I crave the full umami of the Asanoka cultivar.

Matcha Green Tea

Cultivars are not simply matching specific tea needs. Most cultivars stand out viz-à-viz their aroma and, in other cases, have a unique flavor. Cultivars shape the market in other ways. Yabukita is popular for a reason. It’s clearly helped keep prices relatively low, particularly when factoring in economies of scale. Other cultivars have allowed farmers in other areas of Japan to continue competing by growing in areas where it is more difficult to grow tea. As the world of tea continues to grow, the entire market of cultivars will likely shift. Chances are Yabukita will remain the staple cultivar for the foreseeable future, but what will we see in grocery stores? Will labels further detail the company’s cultivar offerings?

The present state of cultivars is exciting. The future will build on that excitement. What excites you about cultivars?

FAQs about Japanese Tea Cultivars

What is a tea cultivar, and why does it matter?

A cultivar is a specific genetic variety of Camellia sinensis selected and propagated for particular characteristics — flavor, yield, hardiness, harvest timing. Different cultivars produce noticeably different tea even from the same farm and processing. Yabukita is the dominant Japanese cultivar (about 75% of all Japanese green tea), but specialty cultivars like Asahi, Samidori, Saemidori, and Okumidori produce distinctive premium teas. Our guide to tea cultivars walks through the major Japanese varieties.

Wine analogy: cultivars are to tea what grape varieties are to wine. Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir produce dramatically different wines from the same vineyard; Yabukita and Samidori produce dramatically different teas from the same farm. The cultivar is more important than most casual drinkers realize.

Why "think twice" — many drinkers ignore cultivar and buy generic "sencha" without knowing what they're getting. Specialty single-cultivar teas reveal flavor differences that blended teas hide. Once you can identify cultivar profiles, the tea world opens up.

What is Tea Cultivar?
What is Tea Cultivar?

What's the difference between Yabukita and other Japanese cultivars?

Yabukita is the all-purpose dominant cultivar — moderate yield, balanced flavor (vegetal, slightly grassy, mild astringency), reliable across most growing conditions. It's the workhorse cultivar that most Japanese green tea blends are built on. Reliable but not particularly distinctive.

Specialty cultivars produce more distinctive profiles. Samidori (sa-mi-do-ri) is famous for buttery-nutty notes — many premium gyokuro and matcha producers use Samidori specifically for the umami density. Asahi has more pronounced floral aromatics. Saemidori produces brighter, more vivid green color. Okumidori has deep umami with savory undertones.

If you've only had Yabukita-based blends and you try a single-cultivar Asahi or Samidori for the first time, the difference is striking — "this is what specialty tea actually means" tends to register with first-timers. Worth seeking out at least once to recalibrate your sense of what tea can taste like.

How do I find tea labeled by cultivar instead of just "sencha"?

Specialty Japanese tea retailers (Yunomi, Hibiki-an, Senbird, ZenCha) carry single-cultivar teas with the cultivar disclosed on packaging. Look for product names that include the cultivar ("Yabukita Sencha," "Samidori Gyokuro," "Okumidori Matcha") rather than just generic descriptions.

Mass-market and supermarket tea is almost always cultivar-blended for consistency rather than character. The blends are usually Yabukita-heavy with some other cultivars added for balance. Acceptable tea but doesn't deliver the distinctive cultivar experience.

For exploration, the Sencha Lover Gift Set specifically samples three different sencha cultivars side-by-side — perfect for developing your palate's sense of what cultivar variation actually tastes like.

Are some cultivars genuinely better than others, or is it just personal preference?

Both. Some cultivars produce inherently higher-quality leaves under most conditions — Asahi-cultivar matcha consistently scores higher in professional tasting panels than Yabukita-cultivar matcha, for example. The genetic profile produces objectively better aromatic compound development.

But within the cultivar quality range, personal preference matters significantly. A Samidori drinker might prefer the buttery-nutty profile; an Asahi drinker might prefer the floral. Neither is objectively better; they're different. The premium-to-Yabukita gap is more universal; the inter-premium-cultivar comparison is taste-driven.

Practical: for matcha specifically, cultivar matters most for ceremonial-grade where subtle flavor differences register. For culinary matcha or steeped daily tea, cultivar matters less because other variables (brewing, accompaniments, application) overwhelm the cultivar character. Spend on cultivar specificity for ceremonial use; relax on cultivar for everyday use.

Why are some cultivars rarer and more expensive than others?

Yield, hardiness, and harvest timing all factor in. Yabukita produces high yields per acre under standard conditions and is hardy across regions — that's why it dominates 75% of Japanese tea production. Premium cultivars often produce lower yields, are more sensitive to weather, or require more careful cultivation, which makes them rarer and more expensive per gram.

Some cultivars also have shorter harvest windows. Saemidori has a brief peak window that requires precise timing to harvest at optimal quality. If a farm misses the window, the leaf quality drops noticeably. Yabukita is more forgiving. Premium cultivars require more skill to produce consistently.

Marketing also affects pricing. Cultivars with cultural prestige (Asahi for matcha, certain regional specialties) command price premiums beyond what the production cost difference would suggest. Some of this is genuine quality difference; some is brand equity. Reading reviews and tasting comparisons helps separate the two.

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About the author

Kei Nishida

Kei Nishida

Author, CEO Dream of Japan

info@japanesegreenteain.com

Certification: PMP, BS in Computer Science

Education: Western Washington University

Kei Nishida is a passionate Japanese green tea connoisseur, writer, and the founder and CEO of Japanese Green Tea Co., a Dream of Japan Company.

Driven by a deep desire to share the rich flavors of his homeland, he established the only company that sources premium tea grown in nutrient-rich sugarcane soil—earning multiple Global Tea Champion awards.

Expanding his mission of introducing Japan’s finest to the world, Kei pioneered the launch of the first-ever Sumiyaki charcoal-roasted coffee through Japanese Coffee Co. He also brought the artistry of traditional Japanese craftsmanship to the global market by making katana-style handmade knives—crafted by a renowned katana maker—available outside Japan for the first time through Japanese Knife Co.

Kei’s journey continues as he uncovers and shares Japan’s hidden treasures with the world.

Learn more about Kei Nishida

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